Robert L. Ohlson Robert L. Ohlson 
Australians are second among the world’s largest textile consumers (the US has the dubious honour of first). Each year, we purchase 27 kg of new clothing and then throw away 23 kg to 31kg depending on who you ask.
Fashion adopting scientific-based and technological solutions to its most unsustainable and wasteful practices is one way to find answers.
Making samples simpler
They then created a “tech package” (short form for technical pack), which is a document that communicates the product’s requirements to the manufacturer. A tech pack typically includes a sketch, size specification and materials, trims, artworks or colours as well as information about construction and labelling.
Smit explains that the tech pack is sent by Smit to the manufacturer. Sometimes the manufacturer is local, but more often it is overseas. From there, the garment will be constructed and returned to the brand.” The brand will then make adjustments and fit the garment to a person and return it to the manufacturer.
The process can be repeated up to four times before the brand signs off. This is a four-way trade involving either Bangladesh, China, or Australia (where most Australian clothing is made).
Smit states that many samples are ordered even before bulk orders [from retailers] – this has huge financial, time and sustainability costs for the brand as well as the planet.
He says, “We have created Quadrant which follows a traditional process but virtually.” You can then make adjustments to the product just like you would with traditional products.
Smit said that the 3D process is just like real life. There are two main players involved: one is to digitize the fabrics to make them flow and move like real life. The other is to allow pattern making and customising avatars. Smit believes that while large fashion companies like PVH, which owns Calvin Klein or Tommy Hilfiger, can afford to train existing employees and hire new ones, smaller players are more afraid of the cost of incorporating new technology in their designs.
Smit states, “We wanted to show businesses that 3D can be used to save time, money, and the environment,”
Fabric fibres made from leftover wine and food
It is a biodegradable and renewable, biocompatible, and inexpensive polymer. Although it is mainly produced from plants and trees it can also be made by bacteria, fungi and algae.
Nanollose, a Perth-based startup, uses wood pulp from trees instead. This is a highly agriculturally and chemically intensive method that places a lot of strain on natural resources. Instead, the team of chemists at Nanollose ferments some product or waste from the agricultural industry and makes rayon fibres with minimal environmental impact.
Wayne Best, chairman of Nanollose, is a chemist who was also an adjunct associate professor at the University of Western Australia. In 2014, Gary Cass, founder of Nanollose, “walked into my office wearing a dress made from rotten wine”
Best recalls that he had stuffed the wine with oxygen from the vat. The wine then turned to vinegar, after being infected by a naturally occurring bacteria. This scum is produced on the surface.
Wayne claims that the bacteria have been grown, and is pure, clean, and neat.
Wayne laughs and says, “So we hired fashion consultants who have a long history in the industry to help understand how to appeal to that sector – I’m not a fashion guru myself.”
Wayne said that the company is currently working to develop a sustainable alternative for leather. However, Wayne believes it is still a long way off from becoming viable. He says that leather is a huge market. There are many people who want to live a vegan lifestyle. However, vegan leather can be cruelty-free but it’s heavy in plastic. Wayne hopes that Nullarbor fibre will replace less-sustainable tree-based cellulose. However, Wayne says the company would have to find a way for it to produce 100 million tonnes of fibre – the same amount used by the fashion industry – in order to be competitive. Your products will be costlier if you are a small business trying to develop new technology.
“The elephant in this room is that the fashion industry wants to be more sustainable and increase sales while reducing consumption.”
The model has been destroyed
The “business as usual” mentality of many clothes retailers and manufacturers is the root of the issue and maybe the largest impediment to altering the world’s second-most polluting industry. No technology can fix it until this is addressed.
“Anyone who designs, manufactures, imports, or sells products has a responsibility for ensuring that clothing is managed in such a manner as to reduce their environmental and health impacts.”
Gertsakis is a long-standing advocate for circular economy and sustainable product designs. He believes that the current fashion model does not promote durability, reuse, repair, and extended garment life.
